People on Zoom often ask me, Mark, how do you get that “movie close-up” look? The answer: I use a full-size camera as opposed to a webcam. Here’s the rundown:
I’m using a Fujifilm X-T4 (formerly Lumix GH5 with DC power adapter), a prime 18mm F1.4 lens , a Camlink 4K, and a Smallrig mounting clamp. Here are few things I learned in the process of putting this together:
– Many “video-capable” cameras are designed primarily for photos, not video. Processing video is far more energy intensive and generates heat. Camera bodies geared specifically toward video (e.g., the Lumix GH5) are better equipped to handle this heat, while some small camera bodies can overheat and shut-down (sub-optimal when you’re in the middle of an important call).
– A big part of what you’re aiming for is that “movie look” where your face is crisp and the background is blurred. This is determined by the “f-stop” of the lens you’re using: a wide aperture is what accomplishes it. A tradeoff arises here — a wide maximum aperture tends to make a lens expensive because it requires higher tolerances in the lens design. The tradeoff I chose (to keep cost under control) was to go for a fixed zoom level (no zoom) with a wide aperture. I went with 18mm for a medium-tight view of my face (see below; 14mm would get you some more shoulders and torso at typical monitor distance).
– USB: As of 2020, a lot of digital cameras now will stream video over USB, now that lots of people are using DSLR’s and Mirrorless cameras as their webcams. Assuming the camera you choose has this capability, it means you don’t need a CamLink ($150) to convert from HDMI.
– Older-vintage DSLR/Mirrorless cameras had a 30-minute recording limit for video. This is a pain when the camera cuts out in mid-sentence. Three options to overcome it:
- Don’t use a vintage camera – go with something newer
- Capture your stream via “monitoring HDMI” (no time limit) using a Camlink
- Use Magic Lantern to get around the firmware-imposed limit
– I’ve focused on the Fujifilm and Panasonic Lumix systems above, but Sony and Canon have great options too. I just haven’t researched them thoroughly.
– Webcam’ing is spitty-business, which means you may be cleaning your camera lens fairly often. To preserve the lens coatings I installed a “UV filter” as a sort of disposable window that I don’t mind scrubbing often.
Here’s the difference between my X-T4 setup and a Logitech webcam, the C922. Same lighting and video settings for both; the Fujifilm’s in-camera film simulation is doing my complexion some favors.
Superradiatingfieldmagnet 